Asirgarh Fort in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

March 29, 2017, 7:33 pm

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Asirgarh Fort is situated in the Satpura Range and is around 20 KM away from the the city of Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh.

Entrance to Asirgarh Fort in Burhanpur

Directions to Asirgarh Fort from Burhanpur Railway station are available on Google Maps. One has to travel by the Khargone-Burhanpur Highway. You can also ask the locals for directions, they are also reliable.

Structures within Asirgarh Fort in Burhanpur

As we were travelling, we could see the Fort in a distance and it was just amazing. It was perched high atop the hill. The fortification and the Minarets of the Jama Masjid situated within it, were clearly visible from a distance. We finally came across a sign board, which informed about the fort. The rickshaw driver told us, that if we plan to go trekking, then we should take the other route. One can reach the top in around 1 to 2 hours. It is a well trodden path. He informed us that, had we waled it up, we would have bee panting all the way up. I didn't tell him that we have climbed many hill forts in Maharashtra.

The motor able road to reach Asirgarh fort in Burhanpur

There is also a motor able road, which takes one, to the entrance of the fort. The motor able road is not in very good condition, so it will test your vehicular suspension. The road is located at the edge of the hill, one wrong turn and you are down in the valley below. It took us around 25 minutes to reach the top, from the main road.
Finally after travelling in the rickshaw for around 1 1/2 hours we were finally atop the hill. The rickshaw driver parked his rickshaw in the parking lot. From there we informed us to walk it too the Main Entrance or Maha Darwaza of the fort.

Fathima and Me at the Maha Darwaza

There is no entry free nor is there any entry timing to visit the fort premises. As there is no lighting in the fort premises, it is better to visit the fort in the day.

The fortification looked amazing from here. Not sure if the fortification is intact throughout the fort premises. It bought back memories of Naldurg Fort in Maharashtra I had trekked with Manohar a couple of months ago.

Structures within Asirgarh Fort in Burhanpur

From the parking lot, it offers a fantastic view of the valley below. The houses looked like ants from a distance. Due to the fog, the photos are not very clear.

At the entrance, there are inscriptions in Arabic or Urdu on the stone walls. No need to worry if you don't know to read that language. There is also a sign board in english and hindi informing you as to what is inscribed on stone. Inscription : Revolt of Shahjahan, Inscription of Akbar and Epigraph of Aurangzeb's Reign.

The history of the fort is also available here. As per history, different rulers have ruled over it over the centuries. The fort was built by Asa Ahir in the 15th century. He was murdered by Nasir Khan of Khandesh who then took over the fort. The fort was later conquered by Akbar and finally it was under the British rule.

Information on Asirgarh Fort in Burhanpur

Historical information on Asirgarh Fort in Burhanpur

Map of Asirgarh Fort in Burhanpur

One has to cross the arc shapes stone door and then the Maha Darwaza to enter the fort premises. The Maha Darwaza is made of wood. It also had a small chor darwaza to it. There is metal (now rusted) stuck to the Darwaza.

Another two keyboards give information as to what places are there on the fort premise. It also gives a map of the fort, so that all places can be covered.

Strucures within Asirgarh Fort in Burhanpur

There are plenty of ruins of houses on the fort premises, again no signboards, so not sure what they were.

Fathima and Me near Jama Masjid in Asirgarh fort in Burhanpur

Another sign board, gives information on the Jama Masjid located in the fort premises. There are three elevated arched doorways to enter the Masjid premises. There is a small courtyard surrounded by arched prayer halls on three sides. It had two Minarets within its premises. There is a internal stairway to reach the top of the Minaret, but it is currently under lock and key.

The arches within the prayer halls are all in symmetry, they are identical and look beautiful. Reminded me of the ruins near Qutub Minar in Delhi. The artists who constructed these artifacts in those days, did a fabulous job. Hence they are still standing though many centuries have passed by. There is also a inscription on one of the doors of the Masjid. Again the language barrier made it difficult to reach as to what is written on it.

History of Asirgarh fort in Burhanpur

Entrance to Jama Masjid in Asirgarh Fort in Burhanpur

There are a couple of broken bastions located on the fort premises. The fort wall has broken down at certain places.

We then located another sign board which read about the British Cantonment. These roofless. structures made of bricks are in ruins. There are many of them located here.

Jama Masjid in Asirgarh Fort in Burhanpur

Symetrical pillars at Jama Masjid in Asirgarh Fort in Burhanpur

There are a couple of water bodies too on the fort premises. The water in them has turned green due to the algae present in the waters. Making it unfit for consumption.

Informaton on British Cantonment at Asirgarh fort in Burhanpur

British Cantonment at Asirgarh fort in Burhanpur

We reached the Mahadeo temple and the baoli (stepwell) situated near it. Entry to the temple is open but not to the baoli. The stepwell was deep and had algae infested water. It reminded us of the Navghan Kuvo at Uparkot fort in Junagadh. Once upon a time, this stepwell, used to provide fresh water for drinking purposes.

British Cantonment at Asirgarh fort in Burhanpur

The Mama Bhanja talab, which is again infested with algae, had turned green. It used to supply fresh water to the fort inmates a long time ago.

There are plenty of ruins and tombs on the fort premises. Again on signboards.

Mahadeo Temple within Asirgarh fort in Burhanpur

It took us around 2 hours to explore the fort premises. We finally exited the Maha Darwaza for the fort premises and headed to the parking lot. The rickshaw driver took us to a arched shaped stone door near the parking lot. He informed us that had we come trekking up, we would have come up from here.

Waterbody at Asirgarh fort in BUrhanpur

Structures within Asirgarh Fort in Burhanpur

He also made us visit a water body located in the fort walls. This a sacred spot for Hindus, they draw water from there and then bathe in the water. Again no sign board, so not sure of the significance.
There is no provision for food and water on the fort premises. So do carry it. There is little provision near the base of the fort. Near the highway.

Water System at Asirgarh fort in Burhanpur

We then exited the Asirgarh Fort and headed downhill to Burhanpur City.

Fortification of Asirgarh fort in Burhanpur

The opening in the fort wall where water is stored, used by Hindu devotees for bathing purposes

The rickshaw driver then took us to the Tomb of Shah Nawaz Khan aka Black Taj.

The trekking route to reach Burhanpur fort in Asirgarh

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Tomb of Shah Nawaz aka Black Taj in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

March 29, 2017, 7:31 pm

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Tomb of Shah Nawaz aka Black Taj is located at Teressa, Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh. It was built very near to the Utavali River.

Tomb of Shah Nawaz aka Black Taj in Burhanpur

After visiting the Asirgarh fort, the rickshaw driver brought us here.

As per our Rickshaw driver , it is miniature version of the Taj Mahal in Agra, as it is made of black stone it is called as the Black Taj.

Centograph at the Tomb of Shah Nawaz aka Black Taj in Burhanpur

There was no similarity between the Taj Mahal in Agra and the Black Taj in Burhanpur, not sure from where he got his facts from. Most of the times the stories narrated by the rickshaw driver are like Chinese Whispers they keep changing over time.

Paintings in the dome of Tomb of Shah Nawaz aka Black Taj in Burhanpur

Now who is Shah Nawaz Khan? Iraj is the son of Rahim aka Abdul Rahim Khan-e-Khana he was one the nine gems or navratnas in Akbar's court. Iraj had helped Jahangir (Son of Akbar) to win many battles in that part of the country. Due to his bravery Jahangir had bestowed the title of Shah Nawaz to Iraj.

Paintings on the walls of Tomb of Shah Nawaz aka Black Taj in Burhanpur

The Tomb of Shah Nawaz Khan was made of black stone. There is a big dome atop it. It is a square shaped structure. We removed our shoes outside the tomb premises and walked in as instructed. There were two cenotaph there. A big one which I assume was for Shah Nawaz Khan, not sure of the small one. What I found interesting was that the walls and the dome had beautiful painting on the inside and that it has remained like this for centuries. Interesting na

The actual grave of Shah Nawaz Khan is below the Mausoleum. There is a small stairway that leads to the actual grave of Shah Nawaz Khan. It it is very dark in there and hence one needs a very good torch. As we didn't have one we decided to skip it.

Pillars at Tomb of Shah Nawaz aka Black Taj in Burhanpur

There are guides available, they will provide you more information about the tomb but for a price.

Tomb of Shah Nawaz aka Black Taj in Burhanpur

There is a beautiful garden around the structure.

Other structure near Tomb of Shah Nawaz aka Black Taj in Burhanpur

There are two other monuments there, though they are completely in ruins. Not much is known about them. In one of the monuments there is cenotaph. Not sure who it belongs too. But I have a feeling that the person should have been related to Shah Nawaz Khan. As the monument is placed next to his.

Other structure near Tomb of Shah Nawaz aka Black Taj in Burhanpur

There is no provision for food and water here. This place is tagged on Google Maps, in case you plan to walk it out or come by your own mode of transport.

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Shahi Qila in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

March 31, 2017, 8:50 pm

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Shahi Qila is a beautiful palace built by the Farooqui rulers in Burhanpur (Madhya Pradesh). It is currently in ruins. It is located very close to the River Tapti and Rajghat. It is on the Rajpura Road in Monin Pura, Burhanpur.

Shahi Qila premises in Burhanpur

After visiting the Tomb of Shah Nawaz Khan, the rickshaw driver brought us here. Again this Palace is tagged on Google maps. As in the city premises one can walk to this place or come by a private mode of transport. Special rickshaw are available here.

The good thing is that there is provision for food and water outside the fort premises. There are toilets in the fort premises.

Shahi Qila in Burhanpur

Shahi Qila was the residence of Shah Jahan.

There is a canon painted back placed near the fort premises.

Information on Shahi Qila in Burhanpur

There is a entry fee to visit the fort premises. The fort premise is open from sunrise to sunset to the public.

ASI has worked on this fort premises. The inside of the fort is nice and clean. They have re built gardens in the fort premises.
Most of the structures are completely in ruins.

Cannon at Shahi Qila in Burhanpur

The fort offers a fantastic view of the Rajghat below. There are a couple of temples at the Rajghat. The River Tapti quietly flows near it. In the waters of the river Tapti, there is a huge stone. It is painted white and it resembles a elephant. On the other side of the river are a couple of more historic monuments. One of them is Ahukhana. I am note sure of the names of the others, the rickshaw driver was not aware of them either. The monuments had tall Minarets next to them.

The entire fort premises can be seen in 30 minutes time.

Haman aka Royal bath at Shahi Qila in Burhanpur

One of the attractions of the palace is the Haman or the Royal Bath. It was built specially by Shah Jahan for his wife Mumtaz. The Haman is a dome shaped stucture. I was beautifully painted on the inside. It had a small bath tub in the middle. The intricate paintings in blue are worth seeing.

Ceiling of Haman aka Royal Bath at Shahi Qila in Burhanpur

The rickshaw driver pointed at one of the paintings on the ceiling and said that it was the inspiration for the Taj Mahal. He also told us that the Taj Mahal was to be built here instead of Agra. Not sure how much of it is true.

Our rickshaw driver cum guide also showed a roadway in the fort walls that leads one directly to Rajghat.

Temples at Rajghat near Shahi Qila in Burhanpur

Shah Jahan had seven wives and Mumtaz was his fourth wife. He built the Taj Mahal for her. I wonder what he built for the other wives.

Fathima and Me at Shahi Qila premises in Burhanpur

Shahi Qila premises in Burhanpur

We then visited the Shahi Mosque. A wall and a Minaret is all that remains of it now.

Remains of Shahi Masjid in Shahi Qila premises in Burhanpur

The are a couple of other structures on the fort premises. Not sure of their names.

Structures within Shahi Qila premises in Burhanpur

The fort cum palace was four storey tall. Access to the rooms within it is restricted.

Structures within Shahi Qila premises in Burhanpur

Had a amazing time here, we then headed to see Raja Jai Singh Chhatri.

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Raja Jai singh ki chhatri in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

April 3, 2017, 4:11 am

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Raja Jai Singh ki Chhatri is located at Boharda in Madhya Pradesh. Shahi Qila in Burhanpur is around 6.5 KM away.

Raja Jai singh ki chhatri in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

This site is tagged on Google maps. But the approach road is not in very good condition. As we were travelling in the rickshaw it took us ages to reach there.

One has to travel by the Mohana road to reach it. The Chhatri is located very close to River Tapti. There is no civilization around the structure. It is in the middle of nowhere.

History of Raja Jai singh ki chhatri in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

Fathima and Me at Raja Jai singh ki chhatri in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

There is no provision for food and water here.

The Chhatri was constructed by Emperor Aurangzeb in honor of the memory of Raja Jai Singh. He was the commander of the Mughal Force. He died in Burhanpur.

Raja Jai singh ki chhatri in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

The square shaped structure is built on a podium. With a fleet of stairs to reach it. The structure is open from all sides. There is a big dome surrounded by eight small domes. There are beautifully carved arched pillars supporting the domes.

Raja Jai singh ki chhatri in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

The dome is very airy from the inside. The cool breeze makes you want to sit there and enjoy the wild vegetation around. One has to remove ones footwear to visit it. There is a caretaker for it too.
From there we traveled to Kundi Bhandara. On the way we located a couple of tombs , but there were no signboards, around them, making it hard to identify them.

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Kundi Bhandara located in Sultanpura near Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

April 4, 2017, 7:16 pm

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Kundi Bhandara is located in Sultanpura near Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh. One has to travel by the Kundi Bhandara Road to reach it.

Information on Kundi Bhandara located in Sultanpura near Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

After visiting Raja Jai Singh ki Chhatri, we headed by rickshaw to Kundi Bhandara. The route details are tagged on Google maps. It is around 14 KM away. Though it is much closer from Burhanpur.
As we were approaching this place, the rickshaw driver showed us small wells by the side of the roads. He informed us that there are many such wells around Burhanpur. There are a total of 103 wells. The first one is for Air and the others for water. The depth of these wells ranges from 30 feet to 80 feet.

We saw these unknown tombs on the way to Kundi Bhandara

The Kundi Bhandara aka underground water management and distribution system, was formed when Abdul Rahim Khan-e-Khana in 1615 AD. This system of water distribution was in use in Iran and Iraq. It helped in distributing clean and pure water to the citizens of Burhanpur.

Kundi Bhandara premises, the lift which goes underground is blue in color in the centre of the photo

Kundi Bhandara is not in use now. But it was used extensively in its hay days. i.e. atleast 3 centuries.

Information on Kundi Bhandara

There is a small lift that takes one to the bottom of the underground system. But sadly that day it was under maintenance so we couldn't see it from the inside. I was informed by the rickshaw driver that it is dark in there and that one needs a good torch to see it. It is also filled with water.

Wells located all over Burhanpur

Disappointed that we couldn't see it its functioning, we headed to Dargah-E-Hakimi in Burhanpur.

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Dargah-e-hakimi located in Lodhipura, Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

April 16, 2017, 9:57 pm

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Dargah-e-Hakimi is located in Lodhipura, Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh. One has to travel by the Dargah-e-Hakimi road to reach it.
After being disappointed at Kundi Bhandara, we travelled around 7 KM to reach Dargah-e-Hakimi.

Syedi Abdul Qadir Hakimuddin (1665 - 1730 AD) is the holy saint of the Bora Community. He was buried in Burhanpur. His grave is visited by pilgrims all year round.

The Dargah-e-Hakimi complex comprises of Mosque, gardens and accommodation for the pilgrims.

Dargah-e-hakimi

Non Bora Community members are also allowed in the Dargah premises. They have to cover their heads. The Dargah premises was packed with people.

The domes of the Mosque's are beautifully designed. All the three mosques are white in color. The white colored mosque and the blue color skies made the picture perfect.

Though there were so many people seated there, not a sound could I hear. There was silence. A nice place to be at peace with oneself.

After Fathima offered prayers, we then headed out of the premises to have some snacks in the form of samosa's and meat cutlets.

The time was 6 PM on my watch and we had to hunt for a place to stay for the night. We decided to head to Burhanpur town for accommodation.

After checking a couple of places we finally settled down for Hotel Madhuvan located very close to the Kali Masjid aka Jama Masjid in Burhanpur.

The rooms were not that great.But that didn't bother us much as we are travelers and we were there to visit historical sites, instead of staying in the room. The room cost was Rs.600 for a double bed non AC. We didn't take AC rooms as it was cold there. The good thing about this hotel is that the checkout time is 24 hours from the time one checks in. Nice na. As we checked in at 6:30 PM on Friday evening, we were to checkout at 6:30 PM on Saturday evening.

We paid the rickshaw driver Rs.1200 for showing us around.

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Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh in India

April 23, 2017, 11:12 pm

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Burhanpur is a small city in Madhya Pradesh. It is around 500 KM away from Mumbai city in Maharashtra. It is located very close to the Maharashtra Madhya Pradesh border.

Burhanpur was ruled by various dynasties in the course of time. Rashtrakuta Dynasty, The Faruqi Dynasty, The Moghuls and finally the Marathas.

There are a lot of historical sites in and around Burhanpur which are a must of history lovers.

The important places are Asirgarh fort, Shahi Qila, Kundi Bhandara, Dargah-e-Hakimi.

Burhanpur is known for its textile industry. As we travelled in the interiors of the city, we could hear the sound of the machines. Most houses have power looms within their premises. Small scale industries.

Fathima told me that entry and exit from Burhanpur town is via a Darwaza. Meaning the entire town is built in fort like premises with walls surrounding it. Interesting . Something similar to Vasai fort near Mumbai.

Burhanpur has got both retail and wholesale shops, selling clothes, grains and other articles.

There are many places to stay and eat here. We stayed at Hotel Madhuvan (lodging only). The food in Burhanpur is extremely cheap and good. We tried at Rehmaniya Restaurant and Sattar Mutton Hotel. They serve both Veg and Non Veg (Chicken and Mutton). What about beef? I asked.

The hotels won't serve you beef but the roadside small sizes eateries will serve you beef samosa and beef cutlet. Yummy and very economical cost wise. No side effects on the next day either.

The beef will surely make my trip complete. Jaora is another city in Madhya Pradesh where I went crazy eating beef.

As we had come from Mumbai, we had a tough time getting signals on our Vodafone SIM cards in and around Burhanpur.

We had a few more places on our itinerary for the next day.

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Bibi ki masjid in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

June 18, 2017, 8:51 pm

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Bibi ki Masjid is located in Monin Pura in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh.

Directions to it are tagged on Google maps.

The Masjid is currently closed and not accessible to public. We were disappointed once again. The first time at Kundi Bhandara,and the second at this place.

By the look of it, from the outside was quite a old structure.
Begum Ruquiyawife of King Azam Humayum built the first Jama Masjid in Itwara Burhanpur , it was also called as Bibi ki Masjid.

We then asked a couple of locals who informed us that certain portions of the Masjid are in need of repairs and hence it is kept closed. Repair work is being conducted inside. Also the local Muslims have asked for the Masjid to be kept open so that they can offer prayers. As this monument is under the ASI, they have been advised to offer prayers in Kali or Jama Masjid located close by.

There are a couple of shops around so one can find food and water. Though we didn't go searching as we had our provisions.

We then headed off to see the tombs or Nadir shah and his brother Adil Shah of the Farooqi Dynasty, located a couple of KM away.

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Kali Masjid aka Jama Masjid in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

May 28, 2017, 10:11 pm

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The Kali Masjid aka Jama Masjid is located on the Qila Road, in Monin Pura in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh.

Kali Masjid aka Jama Masjid in Burhanpur

The Kali Masjid was located very close to Hotel Madhuvan. So close that we could see the Minaret and Masjid Walls from our room.

We had breakfast in the form of vada's, bread cutlet and Kali Jalebi at Milan Mithai, located close to Hotel Madhuvan. Pls note that breakfast items are sold only in the morning. The snacks here are finger licking good.

Milan Mithai near Kali Masjid aka Jama Masjid in Burhanpur

We then headed over to entrance to Kali Masjid. The walls of the Masjid look like that of a fort. Made of black stone. It had a nice border atop the walls. The two Minarets placed at two ends were beautiful.

Kali Masjid aka Jama Masjid in Burhanpur

Near the entrance of the Masjid are many shops. The Entry to the Masjid is via a Darwaza. The Darwaza had a Chor Darwaza (Small Door) in it. Looks like we were entering a fort premises.

I looked up and so the ceiling and it was beautifully painted.
There is water to clean ones legs on the right as we enter.

Entrance to Kali Masjid aka Jama Masjid in Burhanpur

The design on the ceiling, I was talking about.

The Masjid stood in front of us. It was very beautiful. At two ends stood two Minarets. Entry to the top of it is restricted. It appeared to me, like the Masjid didn't have a ceiling.

The Masjid was built by Adil Shah Faruqui somewhere in the 16th century.

Place to wash the feet at Kali Masjid aka Jama Masjid in Burhanpur

There was hardly anyone at the Masjid. The pillars of the Masjid are in Symmetry, plus want was interesting is that the fans had a white bulb fitted to it. It served two purposes, provide breeze and also light at night.

Symetrical pillars at Kali Masjid aka Jama Masjid in Burhanpur

We were not able to spot the Caretaker, as we wanted to see the Tasbeh, rosary made from thousand beeds of Olives. If you do a google search then you should be able to see a photo of it.

Kali Masjid aka Jama Masjid in Burhanpur

That's us at Kali Masjid aka Jama Masjid in Burhanpur

The Masjid premises was calm and quiet. I felt at peace here. The cool breeze blowing , the sound of the leaves of the tree was like music to my ears. I wished to spend more time here, but as we were short of time , we moved out to go see the Akbari Sarai located a couple of meters away.

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Akbari Sarai in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

May 30, 2017, 9:19 pm

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Akbari Saari is located in Monin Pura in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh. It was around 450 metres away from Kali Masjid. The route is tagged on Google maps , so you just can't get lost.

Within Akbari Sarai in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

The entrance to Akbari Saari has been re plastered. Again It had a Darwaza to enter its premises. It had only one door to enter and exit.

The Sarai was rectangular in shape, with the door placed on one of the sides.

Akbari Sarai in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

The history of the Sarai, is put up on this board, if you can read and understand then do post the same in the comments section. This place was built by Abdul Rahim Khan-e-Khana. Not sure when it was constructed.

Entrance to Akbari Sarai in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

There were identical looking rooms with small domes all around the walls of the Sarai. These are currently not occupied and in ruins.

Newly constructed door to Akbari Sarai in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

Within Akbari Sarai in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

Currently pigs have made them their home.

History of Akbari Sarai in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

I am sure ASI will surely work on the re development of this place and make it tourist destination.

Akbari Sarai in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

Goats in Akbari Sarai in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

There is no provision for food and water at this place.

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Maqbara of Begun Shah Shuja in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

June 21, 2017, 7:26 pm

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The Maqbara of Begum Shah Shuja in Burhanpur is located very close to the tombs of Nadir Shah and Adil Shah.

Entrance to the Maqbara of Begum Shah Shuja in Burhanpur

Directions to Adil Shah and Nadir Shah Maqbara are tagged on Google maps, one has to cross by the Maqbara of Begun Shah Shuza before reaching the other Maqbara.

Bilquis Begum was the wife of Prince Shah Shuja. He was the son of Shah Jahan and Mumtaz. Bilquis Begum died after giving birth to her daughter. A Maqbara was built for her in Burhanpur.

Maqbara of Begun Shah Shuja in Burhanpur

The main entrance to the Maqbara is currently closed. So one has to enter the premises by climbing over the broken wall. There is also another way to enter the premises.

We met Mr. Chaudhari there, who works with the ASI. He is closely looking into the re development or renovation of this Maqbara.

Cenotaph at Maqbara of Begun Shah Shuja in Burhanpur

The Maqbara, had a very different look to it, something very unusual to the ones I have been so far. The dome of it made of black stone looks like a watermelon cut into half and placed atop it. It looked like pillars were cut in half and the same were used to construct the Maqbara. There is a window places on one side from where one can see the cenotaph inside. Strangely the window had a glass. There is a small door to enter the Maqbara premises. The door was opened to us and we stepped in to see it.

The artwork at Maqbara of Begun Shah Shuja in Burhanpur

The walls of the Maqbara were beautifully painted from the inside. The intricate paintings were worth seeing and photographing. The paintings from the dome have peeled off. but the walls are intact.

This is a good place to meditate as there is no one around to disturb you. This place is totally isolated.

The ceiling of Maqbara of Begun Shah Shuja in Burhanpur

We could spot the Maqbara of Nadir Shah and Adil Shah from here.

Mr. Chaudhari and Me at Maqbara of Begun Shah Shuja in Burhanpur

There is no provision for food and water here.

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Maqbara of Nadir Shah and Adil Shah in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

June 22, 2017, 9:45 pm

≫ Next: Unknown tombs on the way to Graves of Tota Maina in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

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The Maqbara of Nadir Shah and Adil Shah are located around 2 KM away from the Maqbara of Begum Shah Shuja. There is a muddy path that leads to it.

Maqbara of Nadir Shah and Adil Shah in Burhanpur

Directions for the same are tagged on Google maps.

Mr Chaudhari, who we had met at the Maqbara of Begum Shah Shuja had already informed Mr. Taide another ASI executive posted at Maqbara of Nadir Shah that we would be visiting this place.

Maqbara of Nadir Shah

There is no sign of humans here, total wilderness. There is no provision for food and water either. Luckily we had very little water remaining and we were rationing the water. Both the Maqbara are built very close to each other.

The cenotaph in the middle belongs to Nadir Shah

There are plenty of unknown tombs here. Some of them had inscriptions on them, not sure if it is Arabic or Urdu.

Tombstone

The bigger tomb belonged to Nadir Shah. It is built on a podium. A series of steps leads one to the tomb door. He was the founder of the Faruqui Dynasty in the 15th century. The cenotaph in the centre belongs to him. There are a couple of other cenotaph too, not sure who they belong too.

Maqbara of Adil Shah

There was also a Maulana aka priest there. He looks after the maintenance of these two Tombs. He too is unaware of the of the other cenotaph. The entrance to the tomb is under lock and key. The Maulana showed us around in the tomb.

The cenotaph placed in the middle with a blue chaddar on it belongs to Adil Shah

We then visited the Adil Shah tomb located a couple of feet away. This tomb was small in size. The cenotaph placed in the middle with a blue chaddar on it belongs to Adil Shah, not sure who the other cenotaph belong too.

Thats us, from the right, Mr Taide, Maulana and Me.

Mr. Taide, then gave us a lift on his bike to take us to Mazaar of Tota Maina. He was stunned, when heard that we had walked it all the way to this place from Kali Masjid in Burhanpur.

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Unknown tombs on the way to Graves of Tota Maina in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

June 25, 2017, 10:50 pm

≫ Next: Mazaar of Tota Maina in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

≪ Previous: Maqbara of Nadir Shah and Adil Shah in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

As we traveled by Bike away from the Maqbara of Nadir Shah and Adil Shah, we noticed these tombs on the way.

The tombs are painted white with a huge black dome atop it. There is no mention has to who had built them. These tombs have not been taken over by ASI.

Unknown tombs on the way to Graves of Tota Maina in Burhanpur

Mr.Taide informed us that long ago this used to be a burial site, but very soon it is going to make way to a residential quarters (Basti in Hindi) The muddy patch would turn to tar roads.

In a few minutes we reached the Mazaar of Tota Maina

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Mazaar of Tota Maina in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

June 28, 2017, 5:29 am

≫ Next: Return journey to Mumbai from Burhanpur

≪ Previous: Unknown tombs on the way to Graves of Tota Maina in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

After crossing by the Unknown Tombs we reached the Mazaar of Tota Maina.

Entrance to the Mazaar of Tota Maina in Burhanpur

There is a fort like entrance to reach the Mazaar.

Tombs of Tota Maina in Burhanpur

The Mazaar premises is painted white in color. There are a couple of graves there. The Maulana showed us the grave of Tota Maina. They were two birds who use to live there. The saint who lived there was very fond of the birds. I don't recollect the name of the saint. The Maulana told us a story, not sure if it is true or if it is modified version of the actual story. Hence have not posted it here.

Information on Mazaar of Tota Maina in Burhanpur

The heat was killing us, we then moved out of the Mazaar premises. Mr. Taide then arranged a rickshaw for us, who could drop us back to the hotel.

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Return journey to Mumbai from Burhanpur

July 6, 2017, 8:14 pm

≫ Next: Camping at the Shelte Water Lake near Kohoj Fort in Maharashtra.

≪ Previous: Mazaar of Tota Maina in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

After visiting the Graves of Tota Maina, we were dropped to the main road. Mr. Taide, helped us get a rickshaw to Hotel Madhuvan.

Lunch at Sattar Mutton Hotel

Sattar Mutton Hotel

The rickshaw don't function as per metre and can charge you any amount. Be ready to bargain to get the best deal. The rickshaw driver initially quoted Rs. 140, but when Mr.Taide intervened, he had to settle for Rs.70.

He took us via the narrow bylanes and finally dropped us at Hotel Madhuvan. The time was around 1:15 PM on my watch.

Falooda at Khan Bhai Coldrinks

Khan Bhai Coldrinks

We still had Ahukhana, Gurudwara, Jama Masjid Gosiwada Zainabad, Chudhi Wali Masjid. We couldn't cover these places in the next five hours. So we decided to take the rest of the day off.

We had a hearty meal at Sattar Mutton Hotel. Followed by Falooda at Khan Bhai Colddrinks. The Falooda was at par with the one I had at Badshah near Crawford market in Mumbai.

That's us on a Tonga

The tonga

We picked up some mutton samosa and mutton cutlet for our return journey.

Fathima wanted to travel by Tonga (horse cart) back to Burhanpur Railway Station. Tonga bought back memories of the Tonga ride I had at Jaora in Madhya Pradesh. To which I readily agreed. We paid Rs.50 for the ride. It took us a little less than 30 minutes to reach Burhanpur Railways station.

We located the national flag swaying in the wind while travelling in the tonga.

At the station we learnt that our train to Mumbai. Kushinagar Express is delayed by an hour's time. Meaning the train would leave at 7:20 PM instead of 6:20 PM.

We picked up some Paratha's and Mawa Kali Jalebi and the Kali Jalebi for dessert post our dinner on the train.

The Kushinagar Express finally arrived at 7:20 PM at Burhanpur Railway Station. It halted just for 2 minutes and then departed. We boarded our compartment, the train compartment was dirty. I guess the people have made it dirty . Not sure why people, do such things.

Kaala Jalebi, finger licking good

We ate our dinner and then we went off to sleep Early to bed, early to rise. The train terminated at Lokmanya Tilak Terminus (LTT) at 3:44 AM. Though the train was late at Burhanpur, it reached LTT on time.

I was so happy that we got to see so many new places in Madhya Pradesh. All this at a total cost of just Rs.4k .

Stay tuned for our next trip to Burhanpur to cover all the places we skipped on this trip

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Camping at the Shelte Water Lake near Kohoj Fort in Maharashtra.

July 9, 2017, 10:00 pm

≫ Next: Ogda Waterfall in Palghar district in Maharashtra

≪ Previous: Return journey to Mumbai from Burhanpur

Shelte Water Lake is located at Shelte Village, which is located near Vaghote village. Vaghote village is the landmark. Vaghote village is located very close to the Manor Wada road. By train the closest railway station is Palghar. From there one can either board a ST bus or a chartered rickshaw or switch tum tum at Tain village to get here. The closest fort is Kohoj.

View from Shelte Water Lake near Kohoj Fort in Maharashtra

I had traveled by the side of Shelte Water Lake thrice, as it took me three attempts to conquer Kohoj fort. This is my first camping trip, hoping everything goes well is all that was in my head.

This trip was planned with office colleagues and finally on the D day it was just Hansel and me who ventured on this trip. Remember Hansel, he had accompanied me to Aswali Dam and Shiv Kalin Vihir in Badlapur.

Shelte Water Lake near Kohoj Fort in Maharashtra

We met at 1 PM at Amboli near my place, then filled petrol and then off we went via the western express Highway to Manor. The directions to Vaghote village are tagged on google maps. It is around 90 km away. i.e around 2 hours to reach.

Kohoj Fort in the backdrop

As it was the month of May, it was hot. Though we were travelling on the bike the sun still managed to burn the skin off my hand as it was not covered. I should have taken Hansel's advise and worn a long sleeve shirt.

Road leading to Kohoj Fort from Shelte Water lake

We crossed the Versova bridge aka Vasai bridge without any traffic. Which was good. The roads were clear and hence we picked up on speed to reach destination. We took just one pit stop and finally we were at the base village of Vaghote. We got off the Manor Wada road and asked the locals for directions as a lot of changes have been geographically made to the land. Google Maps was of not much help now as these were village roads and the all looked the same.

That's Hansel and Me

Finally after asking a couple of locals for directions we were finally at the Shelte Water Lake. The locals call it the "Bhandara."

The time was now 3:30 PM on my watch. It was hot as hell here. We parked the bike in the shade of a tree and sat there to kill time. Thanks to the tree we were greeted with the winds at regular intervals.

That's the tent and the bike

Many kids from the villages nearby were in the water, either bathing or cooling themselves from the summer heat. The women folk were busy washing clothes in the lake water. This water is surely not fit for consumption purposes.

Hansel setup to explore the lake surroundings in search of dry twigs so that we can have a bonfire post sundown. He managed to accumulate a lot of twigs, I had carried newspapers for easy combustion and we were lucky to get a matchstick box filled with matchstick right at the place where we had parked his bike.

Sun is setting

The weather was playing games with us, suddenly there was cool breeze blowing and suddenly there was no breeze as at all.

As this was my first camping trip, I had carried powerbank, USB LED light, mosquito repellent, along with food and plenty of water, we didn't carry any liquor as we were on a camping trip. Hansel pitched the tent, though one of the rods gave in, we still managed to make use of the bike to provide support to our tent.

Another pic of Hansel and Me

Hansel lighted the bon fire. It was a pleasant evening, we talked and talked and finally we were bored talking so we decided to eat supper. Supper comprised of mashed potatoes, boiled chicken with coriander and tomatoes. I agree the food was bland but it was high in carbohydrates and protein. Felt super energized. LOL.

There were a bunch of locals, who too had come to the lake side to have a small party. They asked us if we were carrying liquor and if we could share the same with them. We informed them that we were not carrying liquor, but they could join us for supper as we had food in plenty.

Waters of Shelte Lake

The locals had got with them a float (truck tube) and a fishing net, one of them sat on the float and setup the fishing net in the lake. They too had lit a bonfire. We could see three more bonfires lit around the lake premises. Interesting , not sure if they were locals or campers.

The locals who were having a party, managed to catch some fish, cook it in a chatty and had their full and finally called it a night at around 10:30 PM.

Bonfire

I too called it a night, the tent could accommodate two people, had we parked the bags outside the tent. But as we had the bags inside only one person could sleep in it.

Hansel had made up his mind that he would stay awake all night long. What and Why were the questions popping up in my head. But that's what he wanted to do. Not sure as there was nothing to do in the dead of the night. I handed him over my phones so that he could keep himself occupied by surfing the internet or watching movies that were already on the phone. Both Vodafone and Reliance Jio had strong signals here, sadly the breeze was playing up, which made sleeping a difficult task for me. Not sure if I was suffering from Sleep Wake Disorder. But I didn't manage to get deep sleep. See the photos clicked by Hansel, I am sleeping, half my body is outside the tent.

Dinner : Mashed Potato and Boiled Chicken

We woke up, or should I say I woke up around 5:45 AM. It was dawn then. Hansel managed to get some good snaps of the surrounding till then.

Dawn

As it was pleasant in the morning, we decided to go for a walk around the lake premises. We didn't cover the entire lake premises, but just a small part of it. The sound of the birds chirping on the trees was music to our ears. I was so happy to hear that sound. It was much better than the sound of the alarm which wakes me up, everyday.

That's Me

We saw a fisherman, who had come early, he headed to the waters, not sure if he was trying to put the net or trying to remove the net. Hoping that he gets a good catch.

Dawn

We then freshened up, and decided to head back to Amboli. We left around 7:45 AM to reach Amboli at 9:00 AM. As there was hardly any traffic on the road, and the weather was all gloomy we managed to speed up on the highway.

Kohoj Fort and Shelte Water Lake

We managed to cover the entire trip in Rs.600 for two. Impressive na.

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Ogda Waterfall in Palghar district in Maharashtra

September 13, 2017, 8:39 pm

≫ Next: Bus Trip to Junagadh fro Diu

≪ Previous: Camping at the Shelte Water Lake near Kohoj Fort in Maharashtra.

Ogda Waterfall is located in Palghar district in Maharashtra. Directions to the waterfall are easily available on Google Maps.

One has to travel on the Western Express Highway, exit the highway at Manor, from there travel to Wada. From Wada one has to travel by the internal roads leading to Khodala. Ogda Waterfall is on the way.

The tip of Kohoj fort covered in clouds

We comprising of Manohar, Dominic and Fathima decided to visit the waterfall.

That's us, Manohar, Dominic, Fathima and Me

We met up at Andheri (intersection of the metro line and the western express highway) around 6:50 AM. Stopped for a CNG tank fuelling at Dahisar and then headed over the Western Express Highway.

The sun was shining, not a drop of rain nor a rainy cloud in the sky. As it was the month of July, we were hoping to have some showers to make the trip a memorable one.

Rain drops on the window pane

We traveled to Manor, exited the highway and traveled on the state highway to reach Wada. It had rained here as the ground was wet also there was water accumulated on the side of the road, meaning that it has been raining heavily here.

Wet roads leading to Ogda Waterfall

I looked up in the sky, and saw us surrounded by dark clouds, so the rains were due anytime soon. With the rains, the view from the roads was scenic. Lush greenery all around, small water streams all over the place, muddy water accumulated all around and saw people farming too. It's been a long time, I have stepped in a farm. Maybe will do it in our next trip. I remember as a child, I used to accompany my Mom to the fields.

Pond we located on our way to Ogda Waterfall

That's us at the pond premises

We crossed by Kohoj Fort, It took me three attempts to conquer it. Also do read about my camping trip at the Shelte Water Lake, at the base of the fort. This was my first attempt at camping. Hehe.

We travelled on the narrow and winding roads to reach Wada. Wada was packed with people, the narrow roads, filled with people made it impossible for us to drive through. Not sure why the roads are so narrow on a small town.

Ogda Waterfall

Fathima and Me at Ogda Waterfall

Nevertheless we decided to carry on to our destination, Ogda Waterfall.

It is advisable to, tag the places on Google maps at the start of the journey, as the phone looses network signals often. We had Vodafone and Reliance JIO SIM, but no network in the interiors of Maharashtra. As the places are marked on Google maps, GPS helps you to know where you are on the maps.

A large river near Ogda Waterfall

It took us around 3.5 hours to reach the Ogda Waterfall (taking time spent at CNG fuelling and having breakfast ) into consideration.

Let me inform you, that the only way of reaching this waterfall is by travelling by private mode of transport. I hardly saw an rickshaw, tum tum nor ST bus while reaching this place.

A large river near Ogda Waterfall

Not many people are aware of this waterfall. Apart from the four of us, there was a group of locals, who were also there, they had had their dip in the waters and were busy preparing lunch.

An old bridge we saw on the way to the Ogda Waterfall

The water was flowing down a hill in a distance and so the flow of the water was a strong one, we decided not to get into the water but to sit at the banks so that we can wet our feet in the water.

Soaking one's feet in the ice cold water was relaxing to our feet. I wasted no time in soaking my hands and also washing my face in the water. I felt so relaxed. All the tiredness was long gone.

Fields

Manohar and Me love travelling to these offbeat places, as we don't like crowds and like to have nature all by ourselves. I have been to a couple of waterfalls before, some crowded and some not so crowded. Here click on the names of the waterfalls to read about them. Bhivpuri, Palasdhari, Zenith, Chinchoti, Dhabosa at Jawahar and Kalote.

Farmer ploughing his field

Sat there while Dominic, had a good time in the flowing water, when then crossed the road and headed onto the other side, only to see a confluence of the water from the waterfall and a river flowing. The water was muddy, so we didn't venture in it, nor did we go for a swim in it.

Note: There is no provision for food and water here, so one has to carry it. We had picked up our supplies from the highway itself.

That's lunch

Khodala is a small town, a couple of KM's away, there is provision for food and water here. We were happy that we managed to get ourselves Chinese food here. It is a norm on our trips to have Chinese food for lunch and dinner. Though it is just 20 KM away it took us around 1 1/2 hours to reach there, as the roads are narrow and curvy and not in very good condition, but it offers a scenic view of the surroundings.

Another water body on the way

The weather suddenly changed and the rains set in. It accompanied us all the way back to Mumbai. We had to drive slowly on the narrow roads and so it consumed a lot of time and finally we reached Mumbai around 8PM.

That's us again

We had a good time in the trip, thanks to the rains, the weather was even better.

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Bus Trip to Junagadh fro Diu

September 17, 2017, 11:01 pm

≫ Next: Junagadh located in Junagadh district in Gujarat

≪ Previous: Ogda Waterfall in Palghar district in Maharashtra

After visiting all the places on our itinerary for Diu, we woke up around 530 AM the next morning as we had to travel to Junagadh but the 7 AM bus.

There are very few options available for early morning breakfast near the Diu Bus Stand We had a cup of tea, and then waited near the bus stand for the bus to arrive.

The bus finally arrived around 7:15 AM. After haulting for around 5 minutes it then took off.

We then stopped near the Diu -Gujarat border. The bus was checked by the police. They checked all the bags thoroughly as Gujarat is a no liquor state, carrying liquor is punishable crime.

As the journey was long,and we had nothing better to do, we dozed off. So most of our time was spent sleeping in the bus. Though were we sitting we still managed to get good sleep. I guess when one is tired, one can sleep in any position.

I would not call it a nap, as we were sleeping for atleast three hours. We finally reached Junagadh bus stand. Now we had too immediate goals, one is to eat lunch as we had skipped breakfast and the second is to hunt for accommodation.

We walked the streets, searching each hotel, starting from the ones near the Junagadh bus stand , moving to the ones near the Junagadh railway station. The tariff rates are very high here, compared to the ones in Diu. Not sure why so. We were not able to find any hotel within Rs. 1000 for two.

Hunger strikes, we then decided to give up our search for a place to stay for the night and to eat lunch. We headed over to a small eatery near the Junagadh bus stand.

Lunch was in the form of Veg Thali. The cost Rs.40 each. That is so cheap,compared to the Thali we have in Mumbai. As we were hungry, we decided to eat rather take photo of the good we eat. It was a unlimited thali, it comprised of roti, salad, two vegetables, chaas (buttermilk), dal and rice. All this just for Rs. 40, now isnt that a good deal. (this place was closed down when we left for Mumbai)

After having a good healthy meal, we then headed off on our search for accommodation. We got a place a few blocks away from the eatery. Hotel Ganesh. We finally settled for Rs. 1000 for two. As it was impossible to get anything within Rs.1000.

We decided not to waste any time and hence decided to explore the places within the city premises.

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Junagadh located in Junagadh district in Gujarat

September 20, 2017, 9:25 pm

≫ Next: Sardar Patel Darwaza in Junagadh in Gujarat

≪ Previous: Bus Trip to Junagadh fro Diu

Junagadh city is located in Junagadh district in the state of Gujarat in India. It is located at the foot of the Gurjar Hills. Junagadh means Old Fort.

Sorath was the name of this Princely state of Junagadh. Junagadh became a part of India on 9th November 1947 after a brief struggle with Pakistan during the partition.

It was ruled by the Solanki Dynasty, Chudasama Dynasty, the Nawab's of Junagadh, the British and finally it came under the Indian law.

The city of Junagadh has many historical monuments present both within and outside its premises, keep reading to know more about them.

Junagadh can be reached both by road and rail. Buses from different cities and towns in Gujarat ply here. The same goes with the rail transport.

To travel within the city premises, one has to rely rickshaws and the state transport buses. (The fare of the shared rickshaw and state transport buses is economical). Chartered rickshaw will charge a bomb. Apart from the private vehicles plying within the city premises.

Another thing I noticed here is that there are traffic signals but no one follows it, everyone seems to be in a hurry to go, so if you are . travelling on foot, please look in all directions when crossing the road, as vehicles can come from any direction.

There are many stay options available, mostly near the Railway Station and Bus Depot premises, The costs of which I have covered in the earlier post. To read the earlier post click here.

Junagadh city is a small town, the roads are filled with people.
One annoying habit with the men is that they love to chew tobacco and the spit all over the place. They will travel in luxury cars but will still spit, not only making the road dirty but also the doors of the cars.

Most of the small shops here are fitted with CCTV camera. Even the shops in Mumbai don't have them. Either there are plenty of thieves here or they just love the new gadget.

Breakfast comprises of Jalebi and Fafda. Jalebi being my favourite. Tea is the morning drink. During the afternoons veg thali (unlimited) is available. In the evening the chat counters, corn counters, egg pav counters open up all over the place. Looks like the people of Junagadh like their fast food. Not to forget the fountain soda counters all over the place to quench our thirst apart from the juice center. Dinner houses are again veg thali (unlimited)
For our non vegetarian folks, no veg items are also available in certain parts of the city premises.

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Sardar Patel Darwaza in Junagadh in Gujarat

September 24, 2017, 9:38 pm

≫ Next: Mahabat Makbara and Bahauddin Makbara in Junagadh in Gujarat

≪ Previous: Junagadh located in Junagadh district in Gujarat

The Sardar Patel Darwaza is located very near to the Junagadh Railway Station.

Sardar Patel Darwaza in Junagadh

When we reached this place, it was currently under renovation. So we couldn't visit the structure from the inside. Scaffolding was placed all around the Darwaza. Maybe they were going to paint it or carry minor repairs works to the structure.

Sardar Patel Darwaza in Junagadh

The structure is beautiful. It look like a entrance to the city. If you observe, from the main door, one can see the Girnar Hills with the Girnar temple (in white) atop it. Good observation ha.

Atop the tower is placed a clock, though not in working condition even at this time the structure looked marvellous.

Sardar Patel Darwaza in Junagadh

The structure has a wall next to it. I was informed by one of the locals that this used to be the only way to enter the city a long time ago. Not sure how much of it is true.

Nail studded Darwaza of Sardar Patel Darwaza in Junagadh

It had a main door like most forts, the door was painted brown and had nails on it. Maybe they were used to stop the enemy elephants who tried to break the main door down in order to gain access to the city.

We then walked to Mahabat Makbara and Bahauddin Makbara located a couple of feet away from here.

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